Dutch destinations: honour the history of WWII in Wageningen

Photo: Brandon Hartley

Coming weekend, all eyes in the Netherlands will be on Wageningen, a small town near Arnhem, known for its agricultural university and where one of the most significant events of World War II took place.

It is in this modest little town that the Germans signed the capitulation documents on May 5, marking the end of the war in the Netherlands. The terms were negotiated at Wageningen’s Hotel de Wereld.

Wageningen continues to honour that momentous event every year on May 5, Liberation Day. Over 100,000 people attend the annual celebration, which includes a military parade led by veteran soldiers. You can pay your respects any time of the year at the city’s monuments and historical sites.

But take time out too to visit its museums, take few fantastic walking routes, and visit one of the most unique movie theatres in the country.

Five things to do

The National Liberation Monument and Hotel de Wereld
Many visitors go to Wageningen to experience the WWII sites and monuments. If you’re heading there to do the same, begin with the National Liberation Monument on the 5 Mei Plein. It’s located across the street from the Hotel de Wereld.

Hotel de Wereld in the spring sunshine. Photo: Brandon Hartley

The hotel was saved from the wrecking ball not once but twice in the 1960s and 1970s after it fell into disrepair. It served multiple purposes before being converted back into a hotel and receiving a full restoration. Pause for a moment beside a monument near the entrance where a carnation is placed during a short ceremony every day at 3 pm.

Inside, the Grote Capitulatiezaal where the negotiations took place is now a lounge where you can have lunch or high tea. There’s an informational kiosk with an interactive display beside one of the entrances. If you find yourself in the mens restroom, take note of the rather odd memorial featuring more carnations.

You can read about other World War 2 monuments and historical sites in Wageningen via this page on its tourism website.

The 40 to 45 room
You can learn more about the war years at De Casteelse Poort, Wageningen’s city museum. Head to Zaal 40-45 [the 40 to 45 Room]. It contains historical artefacts including the original furniture from the Grote Capitulatiezaal, the terms of surrender agreement, and the pen used to sign it.

The surrender terms. Photo: Brandon Hartley

Additional displays explain what happened in Wageningen during the war, why it was later declared ‘The City of Liberation,’ and how it became a centre point for 5 May commemorations. The museum also has rotating art exhibits and permanent ones about Wageningen’s history.

Airborne museum Hartenstein
Located in nearby Oosterbeek, this museum is devoted to the infamous Battle of Arnhem during Operation Market Garden, later depicted in the film A Bridge Too Far. It Is housed in a former mansion turned hotel that served as the headquarters of the British 1st Airborne Division.

The museum opened in 1978 and contains ‘Airborne experience,’ an intense exhibit that recreates the experience of being a paratrooper during the battle with replica war scenes, buildings, and more. Additional sections of the museum cover further key moments from the ordeal including the evacuation across the Rhine to Driel.

Take a stroll
There are several pleasant walking routes that will take you to various corners of the city like the Arboretum Belmonte. It has 6,000 different species of plants, trees, and shrubs, among them 850 species of rhododendrons and 500 types of roses.

Photo: Brandon Hartley

Bird watchers should aim for the Blauwe Kamer nature reserve. Its bird sanctuary regularly attracts spoonbills, egrets, cormorants, and the occasional osprey. All told, 70 species frequent the reserve. Keep an eye out for Galloway cattle and Koniks horses as welle. You can read up on additional walking and cycling routes in the area via this link.

Two more
Beeldengalerij Het Depot is a ‘hands on’ museum and gallery that features sculptures, many of which visitors are encouraged to touch. If the weather is behaving, be sure to leave time for a stroll through its arboretum that features additional artwork and an interactive sundial. The museum hosts occasional musical performances and kid-friendly ‘adventure tours.’

There’s also Visum Mundi. Originally used as a conference hall for the university, it was where further discussions about logistics took place following the signing of the terms of surrender in 1945. It’s now a cultural centre with a cafe and a gorgeous theatre upstairs that hosts various events and film screenings. The space was once used for graduation ceremonies and its arched ceiling makes it seem more like a church. Additional screening halls and an exhibit space are currently in the works.

Where to eat
Eetcafé H41 is one of the most popular eateries in town and it’s located inside a renovated sawmill. The menu is a mix of meat, fish, and vegetarian dishes. Het Oude Pakhuis is another solid pick, especially if you enjoy steaks. The one at Colors World Food is more diverse with various fusion entrees and appetisers. Try ‘Holland Meets Vietnam,’ which merges spring rolls with bitterballen.

The Hotel de Wereld Bistro. Photo: Brandon Hartley

Queen of India is a good spot for, as you may have guessed, Indian food. The strange glass building that’s home to De Serre van Cleopatra makes it truly one of a kind. Head over there for artisanal pizza and Mediterranean fare.

Give the lavender lattes a go at Caffè Tola, a charming coffeehouse. Robin French Bakery is pretty self explanatory. It’s the place to go for croissants, pastries, macaroons, and more. Café Rad van Wageningen is the tasting room for a local brewery. If you’re eager to try another unique type of bitterballen, give theirs a shot. Oyster mushrooms are one of the main ingredients. Jojo’s Cafe is a quirky bar with live music and it’s decorated with campy religious paintings and statues.

Where to stay
Along with being an historical site, Hotel de Wereld is a fully functioning hotel with seventeen rooms and reasonable rates. Along with the lounge, it has a gastrobar and terrace but is, of course, fully booked around May 4.

Don’t confuse it with Hotel de Nieuwe Wereld, a both a four star hotel with a restaurant and where students from the Rijn IJssel Vakschool Wageningen are trained for careers in the hospitality industry. Hotel WICC is another option located in the centre of the city. Fletcher Hotel-Restaurant De Wageningsche Berg is a bit further out and over by the Belmonte Arboretum but offers cheap off peak rates.

How to get there
Wageningen doesn’t have a train station so travel to nearby Ede and take a bus the rest of the way. The drive from Amsterdam usually takes about 90 minutes.

Anything else?
Given that it’s the 80th anniversary, this year’s Liberation Day will be a big one in Wageningen. Flags honouring the occasion were already flying all across the city in early April. The occasion will be marked with the annual parade in addition to exhibitions and concerts. You can learn more at Wageningen 45, a website about these and other events honouring the anniversary.

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