Zutphen, a town in the province of Gelderland and perched along the shores of the IJssel River, is one of the oldest cities in the Netherlands and one of the best preserved medieval gems in northwestern Europe. Nicknamed the Torenstad (City of Towers), thanks to its many medieval towers still standing sentinel over the skyline, Zutphen is a charming weekend destination.

Zutphen’s history is a turbulent one and it is remarkable how the city has weathered the storms of time. In the 9th century, Zutphen was the target of Viking attacks, with the assault in 882 being the most brutal. Rising phoenix-like from its ashes, the city was not only resurrected but fortified with a stout fortress. From thereon, Zutphen repelled many sieges, notably during the 80 Years’ War.

In the 13th century, Zutphen’s fortunes soared when it joined the Hanseatic League, a powerful trading and defensive alliance of merchant guilds and towns. The league helped Zutphen flourish as a key centre of commerce during the medieval period. Over centuries, when the league’s power declined and new cities like Amsterdam started developing, Zutphen slowly lost its position.

In World War II the town was heavily bombed, but most of the old city centre survived and the rest was rebuilt.

Today the town has an almost storybook-like charm, with cobbled streets, hidden gardens, and centuries-old façades. Among the many towers, the most iconic is the one of the Walburgiskerk, an old church that ranks among the ten most beautiful in the Netherlands and is part of the Top 100 Dutch Unesco monuments.

Five things to do in Zutphen

Explore the town on foot
With over 400 national monuments, Zutphen invites you to lose yourself in its history – whether you’re aimlessly strolling or following a map.

Don’t miss a walk along Martinetsingel, from the Drogenapstoren to Vispoorthaven, where you can take in the view of Zutphen from beyond its walls and enjoy a peaceful stroll along the IJssel River. After soaking in the sights, treat yourself to a pause at one of the inviting terraces in the main square, where you can sit back and let the atmosphere wash over you.

The Stedelijk Museum Zutphen
Learn all about the rich history and the cultural heritage of Zutphen at its municipal museum, where you’ll be going through the highs and lows of the city, admire artifacts, historical documents and works of art. Stedelijk is part of the Musea Zutphen, which also includes the Museum Henriette Polak, dedicated to modern-classical figurative art (which makes for an interesting visit as well, if you have the time).

Visit a remarkable library
Housed within the historic Walburgiskerk, this library stands as a remarkable cultural monument. It’s one of only two such places in Europe, the other being the Biblioteca Malatestiana in Cesena, Italy. Established in 1564 for public use, the library had to find a way to safeguard its valuable collection. Books were expensive to produce at the time, and readers occasionally took them home with no intention of returning, so the library solved this issue by chaining the books to the reading desks.

Discover the hidden gardens
You can’t visit Zutphen without going on a treasure hunt for the city’s hidden gems: the hofjes! These secluded, peaceful gardens, typically surrounded by small houses, were originally built to provide housing for the elderly, the poor, or widows, and often funded by wealthy benefactors. They date as far back as to the 14th century. Check out your map for the Oude Bornhof (the oldest one, 1320), Ruitershofje, Agnietenhof and Luthers Hofje.

Serenely ride through the city’s waters
To see Zutphen from a different angle, take a whisper boat ride along the Berkel River. The tour is one-hour long, in which time you’ll enjoy scenic views while your guide shares fascinating stories about the area, giving you a unique glimpse into the city’s history and charm.

Where to eat
To fuel up for your walk around the city, grab a coffee and cake at Van Rossum’s Koffie, Sani or De Pelikaan (which offers a wide assortment of tea and a delicatessen area as well). For fresh bakery products, Driekant BroodCafe is the go-to spot in Zutphen. Their bread and patisserie products are organic and artisanal, and the cafe is a cosy place serving breakfast, lunch or coffee.

For a taste of Italy in an atmospheric location, head to the Wijnhuistoren – a former inn, weigh house, residence of the city guard and place of public announcements from the city council. Enjoy lunch or dinner while taking in the atmosphere, and don’t miss the opportunity to climb the adjacent tower on a guided tour for a view over the entire town.

De Beren is a relaxed place for spareribs and burgers (vegetarian included), while Nectar cooks with local and seasonal products as much as possible. For lovely Moroccan food, Sultani is the place to go, and Vaticani is another Italian restaurant that offers both lunch and a dinner menu, with a good choice of pasta and pizza.

Where to stay
Feel like an old count of Zutphen by staying at the Broederenklooster hotel and restaurant, in a former monastery built in 1200 which has been beautifully restored. Hampshire Hotel – ‘s Gravenhof Zutphen in a listed 17-century building located in the city centre, also boasts a splendid interior. And for a relaxed stay, at just a 15 minutes walk from the city centre, B&B Bed & Sauna provides a retreat with a range of wellness facilities and packages.

How to get there
Getting to Zutphen from Amsterdam by car typically takes somewhere between 1 hour 40 minutes to two hours, depending on traffic. The train journey from Amsterdam takes about the same time and involves one or two transfers, based on the route you choose.