Wine Watch: Better bubbles for a sparkling festive season
Vicky HamptonEach month, our resident wine expert, Vicky Hampton, selects her pick of wines that befit the season for those on a budget and those with a little more cash to splash. All featured wines are available here in the Netherlands from supermarkets, off-licence chains, local wine shops and online stores.
It’s beginning to feel a lot like… Sinterklaas! As a holiday that’s primarily for children, it’s not perhaps one you’d immediately associate with alcoholic drinks. But surely the adults need something to get through the kids’ sugar high? And whatever’s left over can fit seamlessly into your Christmas menu, Hannukah celebrations or New Year’s Eve festivities. If ever there were a time of year for wine, this is undoubtedly it.
And in my house, the festive season is synonymous with sparklers. Growing up, we’d drink Champagne with Scottish smoked salmon on Christmas Day (I’m pretty sure I had the definition of a privileged childhood). Now that I’m an adult whose salary has definitely not kept up with inflation, I can rarely afford either of these things, but the spirit of Christmas past lives on. If you love smoked fish, try breaking up a few fillets of smoked mackerel with the juice of a lemon and a pot of crème fraiche. Spread on crackers or toasts and serve with a bottle of bone-dry bubbles.
Sparkling wines (especially the slightly less dry wines with lower alcohol percentages) are also an excellent match for dessert. Anything cakey or creamy will only be improved by a glass of fizz. And then of course there’s New Year’s Eve, on which a proper midnight toast clearly involves something sparkling.
But what to buy? And how to tell the difference between all the bubbles on offer?
The first thing to understand is the method that producers in the Champagne region use to make their famous (and famously expensive) sparkling wines. With that under your belt, choosing an alternative that’s Champagne-adjacent but without the price tag will be far easier.
Most Champagne is made from a blend of predominantly Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier grapes (these are certainly not exclusive to the Champagne region, and you’ll find plenty of sparkling wines based on the same grapes). The production of Champagne involves two fermentations, the second of which is in the bottle itself, where the wine spends more than a year in contact with the lees (dead yeast cells). This is what’s known as the méthode traditionnelle (translated variously but recognisably as the traditional method, classic method and so on) and, again, it’s not exclusive to Champagne.
Crémant, which is made in various regions across France, uses the traditional method, as does Spanish Cava, Italian Franciacorta and many others. If you taste a sparkling wine that has bready, biscuity flavours (as well as fresh citrus and green apples), chances are it’s been made using the traditional method.
Of course, all that work comes at a price – even if it’s not as high as Champagne. For budget bubbles, Italian Prosecco or German Sekt often offer good value as they only rely on a single fermentation in tanks. You’ll also find some Cava for under €10, but I’d recommend spending that little bit more if you can afford it – a couple of euros translates to a significant boost in quality.
Best budget bottle: AH Excellent Selectie Prosecco, Veneto, Italy (€7.99)
A simple sparkler made from Glera grapes, this Prosecco is dry, fruity and easy drinking at only 11% alcohol. Clean citrusy and green fruit flavours make it a light aperitif wine that could easily pair with the Christmas canapés. Available from Albert Heijn nationwide.
Magnificent mid-range: Pongrácz Rosé, Stellenbosch, South Africa (€14.99)
In South Africa, traditional sparkling wines use what’s known as the “Cap Classique” method and generally offer great value for money. I discovered Pongrácz’s pink bubbles, made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, a few years ago and have been stocking up on a few bottles every holiday season since. Think subtle red berry flavours, a full-bodied texture and an elegant mousse. Available from Gall & Gall nationwide.
Something special: Frysling Brûswyn Johanniter, Friesland, Netherlands (€25 – €30.95)
English sparkling wine has been making waves in recent years, but have you ever tried Dutch sparkling? The climate here in the Netherlands is similar to that in both Champagne and the south of England, so it’s not surprising that Dutch sparkling is catching up fast.
Frisian winery Frysling is making several examples of brûswyn – one of which is made from Johanniter, a lesser-known white grape variety that’s particularly well suited to cooler climates. After 30 months ageing on its lees, the wine’s flavour profile combines crisp apples and pears with soft brioche and a creamy mousse. Available direct from Frysling winery in Friesland or online via Nederlandse Streekwijnen. A fantastic festive aperitif!
For more of Vicky’s wine recommendations and grape explorations, subscribe to The Wine Edit on Substack, follow @TrufflesandTannins on Instagram or book a tasting!
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