Each month, our resident wine expert, Vicky Hampton, selects her pick of wines that befit the season for those on a budget and those with a little more cash to splash. All featured wines are available here in the Netherlands from supermarkets, off-licence chains, local wine shops and online stores.

The clocks have gone back, the heating is on, and candlelight has officially replaced daylight (great for those of us in middle age, rubbish for shooting Instagram photos of food and wine). November is the time when the Dutch concept of gezelligheid hits its peak: cosy blankets, warming cups of cocoa, movie nights with friends and cracking open a bottle of autumnal red wine.

But what makes a wine autumnal? I’d argue that we’ve moved on from light, berry-forward bottles. Fruit should be ripe (possibly even jammy or dried) and tannins should be smooth. I’m looking for a wine that hints at mulling spices like nutmeg and cinnamon, with a touch of sweetness and vanilla.

Autumn is also a time for bonfires and I want my wine to whiff of smoked cedar wood and tobacco. My dad had an ancient, moth-eaten, knitted jumper than smelled variously of autumn leaves, bonfires and Sunday roast. If it’s not too much to ask (and if it doesn’t make me sound completely crazy), that’s the wine I want.

Speaking of Sunday roasts, autumn’s wines demand slow-roasted meats (think melt-apart leg of lamb) and hot-roasted root veg (the charred edges of oven-baked chunks of butternut squash and parsnip spring to mind). Warming spices are welcome to the dinner table: cumin, coriander seeds, cinnamon, cloves – a touch of dried chilli but not too much.

Hearty stamppot with rookworst (smoked sausage and mash) is a no-brainer, but lighter dishes can also uplift us in autumn: a Middle Eastern spread of creamy baba ghanoush, spicy muhammara and a pop of green tabbouleh. Even a platter full of rich cheeses and smoked meats to dig into. For me, the key to autumnal gezelligheid is the company. Gathering around a table (or even a coffee table from the comfort of the sofa), sharing a meal and a bottle of wine.

With all this in mind, my November wine picks lean heavily towards Southern European reds to warm the soul. Primitivo from Puglia is a natural choice, with its dark fruit and chocolatey finish. Red blends from the Rhone Valley in France (typically Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre) offer a firmer structure with peppery spices.

Grenache from the south of France (or Garnacha from Spain/Cannonau from Sardinia) may be lighter but it’s generally higher in alcohol and full in body. While Montepulciano from Abruzzo in central Italy is so easy-drinking it’s like slipping into a warm bath. Which is exactly what you might be craving on these chilly November nights.

Best budget bottle: Masso Antico Primitivo, Salento, Italy 2022 (€8.49)

Masso Antico uses the “Appassito” method to make their Primitivo, which means the grapes are partially dried before fermentation; that process concentrates the sugars and flavours, resulting in richer, fuller-bodied wines. In this case, you can expect ripe black cherries, dried plums, baking spices and a smidge of smoky cedar that would complement both grilled meats and spiced root veg. Available from Dirck3 (the wine and spirits shop-in-shop at Dirk supermarkets).

Magnificent mid-range: Domaine Lafage ‘Nicolas’, Roussillon, France 2020 (€12.55 – €14.99)

Domaine Lafage’s old-vine Grenache from the Roussillon region in the south of France is juicy with fresh red fruits, intensely concentrated with dried black fruits, and full bodied with tobacco and chocolate. An absolute treat, which would pair perfectly with duck or venison in a fruity sauce. I bought this initially from Wijnhandel Silersshop in Grou when I was staying in Friesland, but when I got back to Amsterdam I also found it available online from Decántalo.

Something special: Lar de Sotomayor Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2017 (€23.95)

Red Rioja wines are dominated by sturdy Tempranillo, but this one has a portion of Garnacha that adds elegance and acidity. The “Gran Reserva” label indicates that the wine has spent at least two years in oak barrels and at least three years ageing in bottle. All of which combined means you’re getting surprisingly fresh flavours of blackcurrant and eucalyptus, toasty vanilla from the oak, structured tannins and a long, complex finish. Wonderful for a special autumn dinner. Available from Bilderdijk Wijnhuys in Amsterdam West.

For more of Vicky’s wine recommendations and grape explorations, subscribe to The Wine Edit on Substack, follow @TrufflesandTannins on Instagram or book a tasting!