You may have seen this city’s apple-shaped bike shed while en route to Utrecht or Den Bosch from an NS carriage. If you’ve never made it further than its train station, there’s plenty in Alphen aan den Rijn that’s worth sinking your teeth into.

Alphen aan den Rijn’s first inhabitants arrived about 2,000 years ago, but things really started taking off once the Romans showed up. Albaniana, a large fort once located in what is now the city centre, was constructed around 40 AD. It helped defend the empire’s northern border.

Gradually, a community of civilians and former soldiers emerged around the edges of the fort. This era was relatively peaceful and the Romans built the first bridge over the Oude Rijn as Albaniana became an increasingly vital trading centre for the region. That all came to an end when raiders came calling in 270 AD.

Important archaeological artefacts were recovered in the nearby town of Zwammerdam in the late 1960s and 1970s, among them large portions of six ships dating back to the 2nd century AD. Alphen aan den Rijn now celebrates the region’s Roman heritage with colourful signs in its shopping district and at Archeon, a ‘living museum’ that features daily gladiator battles.

Located in the Groene Hart east of Leiden, it’s largely considered a commuter city, but there’s plenty to see and do. Along with Archeon and the Vogelpark zoo, there is an array of shops, eateries, and other attractions that merit a day trip or a longer visit, including what could be the country’s most unusual cathedral.

Five things to do

Go on an adventure through time
If you’ve ever wanted to go on a whirlwind journey through 6,000 years of Dutch history, give or take a millennium, Archeon is the place to do it. There’s an actual museum on site with artefacts from the Roman era, but the real draw for most visitors are the, literally, more lively attractions.

Archeon is home to a prehistoric village, a mediaeval town, and a Roman settlement complete with a gladiator arena. Archeon’s actors bring history to life as they portray everyone from friendly Neolithic villagers to fussy Roman guards. Visitors can tour workshops and go on canoe rides, but the more dashing and daring might prefer wielding a sword or shooting an arrow during a training session led by a knight.

The feathered and the furriest
Bird is the word at Vogelpark Avifauna, which is one of the oldest avian parks in the world, but it also has plenty of furrier residents. It first opened in 1950 and features numerous exotic and native birds ranging from flamingos to birds of prey. You can watch vultures crack open eggs and macaws and owls strut their stuff during daily bird demonstrations between 1 April and 31 October.

The park gained zoo status in the early ‘00s as it welcomed a wider array of animals. It now has 230 species including red pandas, giant anteaters, and emperor tamarins. That last one is among the world’s smallest monkeys. They’re known for white moustaches that make them look like they’re about to audition for the role of a sheriff in a film.

Check out further flora and fauna
The village of Boskoop, located just south of Alphen aan den Rijn, is a popular destination for cyclists, walkers, and boaters. It’s served as a centre for tree cultivation for nearly five centuries, too. The nurseries in and around Boskoop contain hundreds of different species of both trees and shrubs. Together they create what’s been described as a fairy tale atmosphere, especially if you’re viewing them from the water.

Nearby is the Bentwoud recreation and nature centre. Its forest was expanded with an additional 2.5 million trees and other plants prior to its completion in 2016. Here you’ll find many species of birds and butterflies along with 80 kilometres of walking and cycling paths.

Linger along the Oude Rijn
The centre of Alphen aan den Rijn runs along the banks of the river Rhine, where many people gather to watch passing yachts and other boats from cafe terraces and lawn chairs on sunny summer afternoons and evenings.

There are plenty of shops and cafes nearby along with a market on Wednesdays and Saturdays. You can also attend a performance or watch a film at Castellum, an entertainment complex with both a theatre and a cinema.

Cycle to a unique cathedral
Europe has thousands of churches, chapels, and cathedrals, but there are few, if any, quite like this one. The somewhat mysterious Groene Kathedraal is located in the village of Hazerswoude-Dorp and looks like something straight out of a Legend of Zelda game. Getting there by bike from Alphen aan den Rijn’s train station takes about 25 minutes.

Those willing to make the trek will find a small, ivy-covered cathedral with stained glass windows, gardens, and a smaller chapel. The Groene Kathedraal can serve as an oasis during a longer bike ride and, blessedly, there is a public toilet there as well. The cathedral is the work of Tom and Conny van Dijk, who originally bought the property in the late ‘90s with plans to use it as a nursery. This eventually evolved into the cathedral after Tom decided to install a lookout tower.

Where to eat
It’s hard to miss Maggie Blue. It’s a large cafe that took over the Nutsgebouw, a listed building that’s housed a bank, a library, and a gym over the years. It’s a vibrant spot with an eclectic menu.

If you’re looking for a more low-key place for dinner, try the aptly named Koeien en Kaas across the street. If you guessed they serve beef and cheese dishes, feel free to reward yourself with a succulent rib-eye steak. Proto is an upscale eatery with lunch and dinner menus. Ristorante Pizzeria Is Morus has over 40 varieties of pizzas and a delicatessen full of Italian products.

If you’ve got children in tow, Sixties Corner is a safe bet for lunch. It’s American-style diner with burgers, hot dogs, and pancakes. Kersvers is a nearby family-oriented cafe with a toy and children’s clothing shop. Njoy is a good pick if you’re searching for brunch or coffee. Sunset Beach and Bar is popular during the summer months. Located beside the Zegerplas lake, they have pizzas, sandwiches, and cocktails.

Where to stay
Pickings are rather slim in Alphen aan den Rijn, unfortunately. Try Stadsherberg Alphen. It’s a boutique hotel in the city centre with a cute cafe. Van der Valk Hotel Avifauna is another option with traditional rooms and more luxurious suites, especially if you can’t get enough of the avian park next door.

The Ali-B2 becomes a bed and breakfast ‘botel’ during the off season between October and March along with select periods during other parts of the year. There are also several nearby campsites including Camping de Oude Rijn. 

How to get there
Getting to Alphen aan den Rijn from Amsterdam usually takes around 45 minutes by car. The trip from Amsterdam Centraal via train is about five minutes longer. 

Anything else?
Look up after dark and you may notice some unusual lighting on the Alphense, a transmission tower for TV and radio that serves as a beacon of sorts. The lights on top are used to observe significant holidays and other events. You can decipher what each colour scheme represents by visiting the tower’s page on Hier is Alphen, the region’s website for tourists and other visitors.